Apple Watches are compact, easy to verify, and depreciate faster than iPhones—which makes them great Marketplace finds. But the small size means issues can hide easily. Here’s what to check.
Know your models
Apple Watch models can look nearly identical. Verify exactly what you’re getting.
On the watch: Settings → General → About → Model Name
Current lineup (2026):
- Apple Watch Ultra 2: Largest, most rugged, best battery
- Series 10: Latest mainstream model, thinner design
- Series 9: Previous gen, still excellent
- SE (2nd gen): Budget option, no always-on display
- Series 7/8: Great value on secondary market
- Series 6 and older: Aging but functional for basics
Activation Lock: The #1 issue with used watches
This catches more buyers than anything else. A watch paired to someone’s iPhone can’t be used by anyone else.
What you should see: When you turn on an unpaired Apple Watch, it shows the “Pair with iPhone” screen—a swirling particle animation waiting to connect.
Red flags:
- Watch shows a clock face (still paired to someone)
- Watch asks for a passcode
- Watch shows “Activation Lock” screen
How to properly unpair: The seller needs their original iPhone. On the iPhone:
- Watch app → My Watch → All Watches
- Tap the (i) next to the watch
- Tap “Unpair Apple Watch”
- Confirm and enter Apple ID password
If the seller “already unpaired it” but the watch doesn’t show the pairing screen, they didn’t do it correctly. That watch is likely unusable. We’d walk away immediately.
GPS vs Cellular: Know what you’re paying for
Cellular models cost $100 more new. They have a subtle difference:
How to identify:
- Cellular models have a red ring around the Digital Crown
- Check Settings → General → About → Model for “GPS” or “GPS + Cellular”
Do you actually need cellular? Honestly, most people don’t. You need:
- A separate watch plan ($10/month from your carrier)
- To actually leave your phone behind regularly
GPS-only handles 95% of use cases. Save the money unless you specifically need standalone connectivity.
Battery health
watchOS shows battery health: Settings → Battery → Battery Health
| Maximum Capacity | What it means |
|---|---|
| 90-100% | Excellent |
| 80-89% | Good—normal for 1-2 year old watch |
| Below 80% | Degraded—shorter battery life, may need replacement |
Apple Watch battery replacement costs $99. Factor this into older watches with low battery health.
Physical inspection
Display:
- Check for scratches (aluminum models scratch easily without screen protectors)
- Look for cracks, especially around edges
- Test for dead pixels with a white watch face
- Verify touch responsiveness across the entire screen
Sensors (back of watch):
- The sensor array should be clean and uncracked
- Cracked sensors affect heart rate and health monitoring
- Look for corrosion or green oxidation
Digital Crown:
- Rotate it—should be smooth with no grittiness
- Press it—should click firmly
- Gritty or stuck crowns usually mean debris buildup (sometimes fixable, sometimes not)
Side Button:
- Should click firmly
- Test double-click to see Apple Pay animation
Band connectors:
- Slide a band in and out
- Should click securely with no wobble
- Damaged connectors mean bands won’t stay attached
Test the health features
Apple Watch’s real value is health tracking. Make sure it works.
Heart rate:
- Put on the watch snugly
- Open Heart Rate app
- Should show a reading within 10-15 seconds
Blood oxygen (Series 6+):
- Open Blood Oxygen app
- Stay still for 15 seconds
- Should complete the measurement
If health features won’t work, the sensors are likely damaged. That’s a pass from us.
Counterfeit Apple Watches exist
Yes, really. They’re getting better but still detectable.
How to spot fakes:
- watchOS looks slightly off (janky animations, wrong fonts)
- Can’t sign into Apple ID
- No “Pair with iPhone” integration—uses generic Bluetooth instead
- Back sensor array looks different from genuine
- Serial number doesn’t validate on Apple’s site
Verify the serial number: Settings → General → About → Serial Number
Check at Apple’s Check Coverage. Fakes either won’t validate or show a different product entirely.
What’s a fair price?
Early 2026 Marketplace prices for good condition:
| Model | GPS | GPS + Cellular |
|---|---|---|
| Ultra 2 | N/A | $550-650 |
| Series 10 (41mm) | $300-375 | $375-450 |
| Series 10 (45mm) | $350-425 | $425-500 |
| Series 9 (41mm) | $225-300 | $300-375 |
| Series 9 (45mm) | $275-350 | $350-425 |
| SE 2nd gen | $150-200 | $200-250 |
| Series 8 | $200-275 | $275-350 |
| Series 7 | $150-225 | $225-300 |
Prices for aluminum. Stainless steel and titanium add $100-200.
Bands: What’s actually worth something
Worth paying extra for:
- Milanese Loop: $50-80 used
- Leather bands: $30-50 used
- Stainless steel link bracelet: $150-250 used
Nearly worthless used:
- Sport bands: $5-15
- Generic third-party bands
If a listing includes expensive bands, that adds real value. Sport bands? Not so much.
Quick verification checklist
- Watch shows “Pair with iPhone” screen (not locked)
- Settings → About matches the listing
- Battery health above 80%
- Digital Crown rotates smoothly
- Heart rate sensor works
- Display has no dead pixels or cracks
- Serial number validates on Apple’s site
- GPS/Cellular matches what you’re paying for
Checking out an Apple Watch listing? Spottable AI for Chrome analyzes pricing, flags suspicious sellers, and catches scam patterns—so you know what you’re getting into.
What to Look For
- Verify Activation Lock is disabled (watch should show pairing screen)
- Check battery health (Settings → Battery → Battery Health)
- Test heart rate sensor and other health features
- Inspect display for scratches, cracks, or dead pixels
- Verify GPS vs GPS+Cellular model
- Check band connector slots aren't damaged
- Test Digital Crown rotation and side button
Red Flags
- Watch doesn't show 'Pair with iPhone' screen on startup
- Seller doesn't have the original iPhone to unpair
- No box but claims 'brand new'
- Price significantly below market (counterfeits)
- Can't demonstrate health features working
- Band looks worn but watch claims 'like new'
Common Scams
- Watch still paired to previous owner's iPhone
- GPS-only sold as GPS+Cellular
- Counterfeit Apple Watches (yes, they exist)
- Cracked sensor backing hidden by wearing
- Older Series sold as newer model
- Non-Apple bands included as 'original'
Deal Hunting Tips
- Series 2-3 generations back offers best value
- GPS-only is $100 cheaper and sufficient for most users
- Aluminum cases show wear faster but work identically
- Look for sellers upgrading—usually well-maintained watches
- Sport bands are nearly worthless used; nice bands add value
Skip the guesswork
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